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All experiences in life start at a single point in time. Someone mentions something and “voila”, an idea is born. My trip to Haiti evolved in a similar manner. A flurry of chaotic e-mails graced the realm of the Internet and soon I found myself attempting to explain the contents of my bag to frowning Haitian customs officials. The French words for External CD burner failed to materialize at the desired moment. Lesson number one had been made clear to me - brush up your French, fast!

Last fall I had the opportunity to spend some time in Haiti. During that period there were days during which I learned more than during my entire university career. You see, Haiti is a fascinating place; wrapped in a veil of complexity that seems to become more baffling the more one attempts to understand.

Haiti is a nation that has slipped into a tragic dance of chaos, anarchy, suffering, and environmental collapse. Sadly, this is often the only side of Haiti that is portrayed in our media. However, there is another side to Haiti, one that we can learn a great many things from. Haitians are fiercely proud of their heritage and beneath all the poverty and violence there is a vibrant, breathing culture.

There are few places in the world where an impromptu neighborhood party, featuring a full 12-piece horn ensemble, may awaken you in the middle of the night. At times I questioned whether Haitians actually ever slept, as the country is cursed with roosters that declare daylight, well before the sun graces the horizon…

I guess somewhere between dancing the night away to the sweet melodies of horns accompanied by crashing cymbals and the crowing rooster, Haitians find time to rest their weary eyes.

It is as though so much has been taken from the Haitian people and their appeals for true independence and international respect ignored, that their determination to smile and dance in the most trying of circumstances is a statement to the world that they still are not heard.

Seldom have I witnessed greater contrasts than the brilliant smiles of the children surrounded by such harshness. Haiti is an unforgiving place, where the desperate struggle to survive has caused hardships difficult to comprehend in our consumer crazed society. Rampant deforestation has left Haiti with an extremely meager 2-5% natural forest coverage. Superficially, the path of changing unsustainable forest practices may seem straightforward. Indeed, both NGOs and foreign governments alike often oversimplify this issue. A common phrase I came across upon returning from Haiti was “why don’t they just stop cutting down trees and use aggressive reforestation techniques.” However, it is not that simple, and it is not a case of farmers and Haitians not knowing that cutting down forests is directly endangering their lives. In fact, many Haitians are tremendous naturalists, much better than you or I. They comprehend earth systems on a very detailed and hands-on level. Farmers and charcoal producers know that their actions are contributing to further decreasing soil stability and that they are increasing their susceptibility to flooding. The great tragedy is that they often have no other choice; human survival instincts make people do things that defy common sense. That is why they are called survival instincts.

Make no mistake about it, Haiti is in survival mode and people are facing famine. It is therefore imperative that we, as outsiders, approach Haiti and the issues within it with a degree of humbleness and respect that reflect the fact that we are privileged to be able to reach out to others and offer assistance. That we remember that no matter how hard we may try- we may never fully be able to comprehend the desperation many Haitians face, as we have never faced it.

There are many NGOs working within Haiti, and the projects they undertake cover a broad spectrum of issues and success rates. International development is a tremendously complex issue. In Haiti this is greatly amplified by a history of governmental instability, widespread corruption, devastating poverty, violent conflict, environmental collapse, and a lack of cohesive efforts among those attempting to assist. Many aid projects, while well intentioned, inadvertently cause greater hardship for Haitians as they foster dependency. This is a difficult concept for many people to grasp and a fine balance exists between offering compassionate assistance and eroding the ability of a community to help itself.

On the way back from Pichon. Aimee Hartley

When Barb Kruger from Partners for Prosperity first approached me about traveling to Haiti, I was drawn to Partners for Prosperity’s commitment to building local capacity and playing a supportive not a directive role. The educational project in Pichon, Haiti, had only recently been adopted by Partners for Prosperity and while there were plenty of smiles, very little was known about the details of the project or for that manner about Haiti. I flew to Haiti with the mandate to listen and learn, to attempt to understand the current political crisis, assess the environmental situation surrounding Pichon and identify needs, ideas, and ways in which Partners for Prosperity could provide assistance in building local capacity. The theory being that Partners for Prosperity wanted to find a way to truly contribute to the solution and create a support network abroad for the Pichon project. In this case, supporting Nadia and Lou Lou Balthazar and the school Le Ecole Pa Nou that they had helped found. They are two of the most amazing people I have ever met and their commitment to help the people of their country inspiring.

Unfortunately, my time in Haiti was cut short by a combination of illnesses that Haitians face everyday. I was able to accomplish some of my objectives, but some questions still remained. Returning to Canada I became charged with questions. Why was Haiti immersed in such a crisis? How could the second country to declare independence be the poorest nation in the Western Hemisphere? How could a land mass barely 200 miles off the coast of Florida resemble a different world? What role did foreign interference and the CIA play in all of this? And lastly, what role did I as a consumer in the western world and as an eligible voter have? These questions drove me to inform myself via any available medium. I searched for scraps of writing, audio, and film about Haiti, pored through UN Resolutions, books and sifted through biased media muck. In the end I realized that while I had found answers, I had also created many more questions. A fire was kindled within, one to find answers to help understand the past, and more importantly to understand how the future may be influenced, another fire to share stories. To share the stories of all those Haitians that shared their stories with me, and all those that want to share but are not heard.

In a little over a week, I am going back to Haiti, back to search for answers, build bridges of understanding, create a forum for messages from Haiti to be heard here in North America, and ultimately my hope is that through awareness solutions can be found. Because sadly, one of the things that I have learned is that Haiti’s suffering is not merrily the result of actions on behalf of Haitians. My dream is that in the end, we can all dance the night away, not as a symbolic gesture but out of joy - that is until the rooster crows…

Written by Matthias Starzner, a 25-year old environmental scientist/ photographer, from Vancouver Island, BC, who, when not traveling in the mountains or abroad calls a trusty VW van home. Now hopelessly in love with Haiti, he is preparing for another trip down south.

Photo by Aimee Hartley, Partners intern

 

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